Wednesday, May 04, 2005

I Surfed JAWS

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That's right. It is an amazing wave. I must say I was a bit skeptical as to how I wanted to approach it. I thought that tons of people ride it the same way, so why should I. I know that all these weiners have to get towed in, and that they use special boards with all these straps on them. I just thought that it would be gnarly if I used a tray from Taco Bell. I did not get towed in. I swam beneath the beast, and when I saw a wave with my terrific underwater vision a swam right into it. I was super deep in the barrel when I almost had to put both feet on the tray. I eventually did a flip in the middle of the barrel and rode out smoothly. I lost the tray when I catapulted myself from the wave to the nearby cliffs. Tasty waves, good buzz.

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